Method and a feeding device in blindstitching of textile fabrics



1956 N. J. JONSSON METHOD AND A FEEDING DEVICE IN BLIND-STITCHING OF TEXTILE FABRICS 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 20, 1953 F/Gi Aug. 14, 1956 J N 2,758,559

METHOD AND A FEEDING DEVICE IN BLIND-STITCHING 0F TEXTILE FABRICS Filed 001',- 20, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG? States Patent ()fi 2,758,559 Patented Aug. 14, 1956 ice METHOD AND A FEEDING DEVICE 1N BLIND- STITCHING OF TEXTILE FABRICS The invention relates to a method and a feeding device in blindstitching of textile fabrics.

Blindstitching is a sewing method used in sewing up two fabric pieces, e. g. the undercloth and the intermediate lining of a collar of a costume, in which the seam passes through the intermediate lining and not through the under cloth but instead is only drawn therethrough. The blindstitching is carried out in the form of substantially parallel stitchings in special machines just as a common scam in a sewing machine.

For making e. g. under-collars one proceeded hitherto in such a manner, that at first two cloth pieces having substantially the size of the collarwe're cut out, which cloth pieces were laid one upon the other and stitched, whereafter the pattern of the collar was cut out.

Said mode of operation has several disadvantages. On the one hand, the capacity of the blindstitching machine cannot be fully utilized as the machine on the short length of the seam has not time to reach full strokespeed, on the other hand the consumption of cloth will be great as the previously cut out cloth pieces must be larger than the final dimensions of the collar because during the blindstitching the cloth may move and the wasted time is great on account of the repeated tearings of the thread and the repeated start of the machine for each stitching.

The method according to the invention is characterized in that the material of two or more rolls of cloth are superposed and sewed up at their ends into an endless band which band is continuously fed through the blindstitching machine so that the cloth will be blindstitched along its entire length and width in one single operation by applying a stitch running in a screw-line.

It is thus possible to cut a pattern of the collar directly to its final size out of a larger blindstitched cloth piece, whereby unnecessary waste of fabric is avoided.

The invention also relates to a feeding device for the endless sling for carrying out the above-mentioned method.

One embodiment of the invention is described below with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a side view of a work table, a blindstitching machine and a feeding device according to the invention, the whole arrangement being diagrammatically shown, and

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatical front view of the arrangement in Fig. 1.

On a work-table 1 is placed a blindstitching machine 2 which by means of a belt 3 or the like is driven by a motor 4. The fabric lengths to be blindstitched are superposed and sewn up into endless lengths 5. As the feeding capacity of the blindstitching machine 2 is not sufiicient to pull the cloth roll which is usually about 135 feet in length, a feeding device is provided which works synchronously with the blindstitching machine.

On the shaft of the motor 4 there is provided an additional belt wheel 6, from which the movement is transmitted by means of a belt 7 to a reduction gear 8 which,

2 in turn is driving a shaft 9 at low speed. On this shaft chain wheels 10,11 rolls 12, 13 over chains 14 and 15 respectively and, if desired, over a further chain 16 and an intermediate wheel 17. The feeding rollers 12 and 13 are preferably coated with a friction material, e. g. rubber, for improving the feeding of the cloth which, moreover,'i's facilitated by weight-loaded rollers 18, 19 resting against the feeding rollers 12 and 13 respectively. The rollers 18 are rotatably journalled at one end of a double-armed lever 20 which at the other end may be loaded with weights 21 so that the roller 18 is kept pressed against the underside of the roller 12. The rollers 19 act with their own weight against the upper side of rotatably journalled at one end of levers 22, which at the other end are 'swingably mounted on brackets on a frame 23 in which also the feeding rollers 12 and 13 are journalled. The roller 12 is freely rotatable on the shaft driven by the chain 14 and may be connected with said shaft by means of a clutch 24. e

To the shaft 9 is secured a chain wheel 25 for driving a Wheel 26 journalled in the frame 23 and driven over a chain 27. A connecting rod 28 is adjustably journalled by means of a bolt 29 in a radial notch 30 in the wheel 26 in order to vary the hub of the connecting rod 28. The other end of the connecting rod is swingably journalled at an arm 32 swingable on a shaft 31 journalled in the fame, which arm 32 is provided with an adjustable bracket 33 carrying two freely rotatable rollers 34. A similar arm 32 is secured to the other end of the shaft 31 at the other side of the frame.

Behind the work table 1 there is arranged a movable receptacle 35 for the cloth. The bottom of the receptacle consists of substantially parallel spaced rollers 36 a pair of the rollers provided adjacent the middle of the receptacle being arranged below the other rollers and on the same level as the underside of the roller 12.

The operation of the device is apparent from the following. The cloth of the two rolls to be blindstitched are superposed in the whole length of the roll and the doubled cloth is passed through the device in the following manner. On the work table 1 behind the blindstitching machine a roller 37 is journalled under which the cloth is pulled and runs therefrom between the feeding roller 13 and the loading rollers 19 down between the rollers 34 into the receptacle 35 in which and is pulled out between the feeding roller 12 and the loading rollers 18 and hence the cloth is returned to the work-table over a roller 38 adjustably secured at its front edge to the blindstitching machine. The ends of the cloth are thereafter sewed up and the blindstitching machine 2 is adjusted to begin the blindstitching at one end of the cloth of the endless band and may then continue in one single screw line along the whole length and width of the cloth without stopping the blindstitching machine, while the cloth is manually displaced or shifted in the transverse direction relative to the blindstitching machine during the operation of the latter to cause stitching along a screw line.

Since the blindstitching machine itself cannot Withdraw the cloth band, he feeding is substantially carried out by the feeding roller 13 the speed of rotations of which is adjusted to the feeding of the blindstitching machine and the cloth is therefore kept stretched between the machine and said roller 13 below the roller 37 by means of the friction between the fabric and the rubber roller as well as the pressure of the rollers 19.

The purpose of the feeding roller 12 is substantially to withdraw the cloth band from the receptacle so as are arranged for driving feeding the roller 13 and are not to be kept stretched in front of the blindstitching machine. The speed of rotation of the roller 12 is therefore adjusted to the feeding rate of the blindstitching machine but if the cloth band, for one reason or another,

should be stretched between theroller 12 and the machine the roller 12 may be released by means of the clutch 24 and the band may then be withdrawn by hand.

By the swinging of the arm 32 to and fro during the continuous blindstitching of the fabric the cloth will be deposited in the receptacle 35 in the form of slings 39 so as, on the one hand, to occupy a small space in the receptacle and, on the other hand, to be withdrawable from the receptacle by the roller 12 with the least possible power. 7

The arm of the, blindstitching machine is of such a leng h as not to allow blindstitching of broader cloth lengths in one single operation. The width of the cloth is normally about one yard, and the operation must in such a case be interrupted when half of the width of the clothhas been blindstitched. The part of the cloth band running down from the feeding roller 13 is cut apart so that the entire length of the cloth after; a last passage through the blindstitching machine will be gathered in the receptacle, whereup the latter is turned through an angle of 180 and the cloth band is again drawn through the device in the above-mentioned manner and is sewn up into an endless band which is finished by blindstitching.

With the aid of the described feeding device the full capacity of the blindstitching machine may be utilized and the consumption of material in the cutting-out of the blindstitched cloth will be as small as possible.

What I claim is: A method of producing undercollars each of which 5 includes two layers of fabric secured together by blindstitehing; said method comprising superposing the material of at least two rolls of fabric and stitching together the superposed materials at their ends to provide an endless band of double thickness, continuously feeding 10 said hand through a blindstitching machine while displacing the band laterally. relative to the machine so that the band is blindstitched along its entire length and across its entire width in one operation by a screwshaped line of stitching, separating the stitched together 15 ends of said band, reversing the band, sewing it into an endless band, and again feeding said band through said blindstitching machine, separating the stitched ends of said band so that the latter may be flattened out, and then cutting-out undercollars from the flattened, blind- 20 stitched band.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 

